bonjour à tous

i have arrived in the land of wine, cheese, and philosophy after a long trip...

as i wrote in an e-mail to my dad:

my flight left 4 hours too late--so after 3 hours of waiting, i waited another 4. mechanical problems, i guess. i got to meet more people and talk to them in french..so it was overall good--except for the fact that all of my connection trains i missed--so i get to paris and am lost.

the person who i sat next to was incredible. he was a french grad student at university of chicago teaching advanced french and doing a dissertation on the relations between the celtic religion and french gouvernment--very controversial and very interesting. he made me feel better about my decision and told me about french life...especially the american way to overexaggerate and use hyperbole... he even told me how to navigate the paris underground railway system...

not only that, he bought me the ticket through the metro and accompanied me until the stop before i had to get off. once there, i transferred onto another local train, which was jammed, to the gare de lyon--paris' biggest and busiest train station. you should have seen me--2 50 pound suitcases and 1 huge backpack, sweating (due to the heat wave), and not knowing what is going on. i asked 3 people where the ticket station was, and i got 3 different answers--so i wandered. i was also looking for an internet cafe to plug in and find my host family's number...which i could not find. the trainstation was packed--no where to move, i ended up using my suitcases to plow through places using "excusez-moi" and "pardon"...two beautiful phrases.

i ended up buying another train ticket, direct, to Grenoble, on the TGV. it cost me about 100$, which i will not be able to get back since united refused to pay me for their delay...

though once on the TGV, it was much more relaxing. faster than anything i have ever been on--i was in grenoble in 2h30m. once i arrived, i was 2 hours late. my host family was not there...and it was getting dark with no businesses open. i went to the information kiosk and asked where i could find a telephone card--he said it was too late to buy one. i gave him the number (which i looked up in the telephone book) and he tried calling but the line was busy. 1 hour later, i gave up and prepared to find myself a room...until another frenchman came up to me, speaking english, and asked if i needed anything...

he offered his phone, and called for me. the guy paid for a taxi to my host family's appartment and helped me with everything...
the french people are incredibly nice.

i arrive, mme. jullien, my host ma, is a 79 year old divorced frenchwoman with a golden heart--we talked for 2 hours and she served me food--a salad with a balsamic vinagrette dressing, ham, cheese, wine, and glazed peaches. she speaks english fluently, but we always avoid it. the appartement is small and cluttered, but good. she has 2 beautiful long haired maincons (cats...with the french name)...(the kind mom always wanted). she has internet as well. she was fine with waiting for me and views it as hilarious...she used that story to introduce me to my roommate, carlos, from venezuela. he is a pilot. oh, and the french humor is much like ours--i wish i could have snagged some fromage du wisconsin...sharp cheddar.

i slept 12 hours after my arrival.

i woke up this morning and i talked with my host for a bit, and i travelled around the city. what an incredible site...old time charm with a modern feel, truely incredible. i also found out that french restaurants close their doors from 2pm until 5 or 6...which left me out to dry and created awkward situations...

situation one:

i arrive, the brasserie is empty. i sit down, and the waiter say: "qu'est-ce que vous faites."--what are you doing. i say "je voudrais quelquechose de manger, svp" i would like something to eat, please...they ramble on about the idea that it is impossible to cook food at 14h in the afternoon...and it was so fast that i had no idea what to respond. i just nod my head, back into a corner, and leave.

situation two:

i arrive, the restaurant is partially filled, 5 or 6 people, and i say "pourriez-vous me trouver une table, svp". they are like..."ok" and show me to a table. i then ask--"est-ce que j'ai une carte svp." can i have a "menu" svp?. they are like "quoi" what?, giving me a look like i just carved an ice sculpture with my foot. i then ask--un menu svp?, and they are still giving me the look...and then he starts to speak english...would you like a menu?...i say yes...i then ask for the plate of the day...he says they arent serving anything and then asks if i like beer. i said yes. and i drank the glass of beer thinking that i was crazy.

i come to find out, the french word for menu IS carte...and that the guy at that place is known for not understanding anyone. thanks.

the speaking part is coming along. its all about the incessant chipping at the wall that is fluency...keep going...keep going...keep going


i hope your days arent as confusing as mine...

spence